Description
Tired of waiting for epoxy and other glues to fully dry and settle? The C&F Fly Wheel takes care of that…
After you’ve applied epoxy or glue to a fly, set the fly to form by placing it in one of the slits in the foam and rotate the wheel. This process will give you a perfectly formed head or body. Great for saltwater flies, like Sand Eels, Surf Candy and Epoxy Minnows.
Designed for curing flies that have received application of glues such as Epoxy, Loon Hard Head or Z-poxy.
The Fly Wheel runs on batteries so it can be placed anywhere you like.
Epoxy Tips:
Epoxy gives you a great deal of creative license. You can stir Loon Powder, mix in flash, or mold it with you fingers before it is fully cured to shape your fly. However, if you’re having trouble working with the epoxy, here are a few final tips to keep you on track:
- If your room is cold and the epoxy is too thick to use, let the bottles of epoxy sit in a warm place, or a cup of warm water. This also helps to disperse bubbles in the epoxy.
- If your epoxy will not harden, check the date of manufacture. Epoxy has a long shelf life, but may degrade after a few years, and may deteriorate more quickly if exposed to strong sunlight.
- If your epoxy appears lumpy or uneven when dry, it was likely too thick to use when you applied it. I find 30-minute epoxy yields a working time of around ten minutes – 5-minute varieties will give 2-3 minutes working time at maximum – don’t try and coat more flies than you have time for with one batch.
- If you are using epoxy on top of another coating, make sure the first coating is completely dry. Otherwise the epoxy could become cloudy and/or not cure properly.
- If you are not sure when to turn off your drying wheel, draw a line through the pool of epoxy left over on the card with your bodkin. If the epoxy does not seep back into the gap you created, than you can turn off the drying wheel without the epoxy sagging. Wait overnight for the epoxy to fully cure.
